Christmas in Pune, a jaunt back in time

Commercialization might have crept into the season's festivities, but folks who've grown up in the old city locale of Pune, India suggest that Christmas here still has an inviting charm of its own

Pearl and Cheryl Martyres put up the Christmas star in their Camp home (pictures by Santosh Mishra)

For most people living in Pune, like yours truly, the 'city sidewalks...dressed in holiday style' that the infamous, nostalgic Christmas number Silver Bells talks of, paints images of the Camp area almost instantly. It is home to Christian institutions, churches of different denominations and of course, a considerable Christian population, the influence of which can best be felt during the Yuletide season.

We decided to go on a festive walk down Camp's quaint lanes and alleys, through the eyes of people who've grown up there. While they talk about how the locality vies with changing times to retain its old-world charm, especially during this season, they add that it continues to welcome those looking to partake in the celebrations...

To times, when Christmas was all about family gatherings

For chartered accountant Suresh Castellino, who grew up in their 125-year-old iconic Therese Building off Camp's MG Road, Christmases past were synonymous with family time. "As kids, we'd wait for school to close; the last day was invariably a half day with a Christmas party. The first thing we'd do after coming home was assemble our nativity scene, which is over a hundred years old. It would be a challenge tying moss around the wooden frame for Jesus' manger, but that's something we enjoyed doing together as a family," Suresh reminisces.

His mother, Audrey, tells us that Christmas in Camp was a lot quieter back in then, "Celebrations weren't so large in scale. It was mainly defined by house parties. Friends and relatives would visit to wish us all the way up till January 6," says Audrey. The tradition of house visits still holds, but has gone down for sure, she says.

"Christmas in Camp has become brighter and more inclusive today. It is celebrated by everybody, not just the Christians. This is especially evident by how crowded MG Road gets two weeks before Christmas," adds Suresh.

57-year-old Carl Martyres, who lives with his family in Camp's Pudumjee Park in a rustic family home that his grandmother built in 1935, recalls, “We were about 40 families in the area, and holiday visits would go on till a week after Christmas Day. Back then, there were no time restrictions. I remember visiting friends as late as 11.30 pm, and we’d be warmly welcomed. Today, one has to seek an appointment before going over to someone’s place! I guess that a change we’re seeing globally.”

Christians, Hindus and Muslims bonded over sweets

69-year-old Nicky Picardo, who grew up in Camp's Pudumjee Compound, remembers how his non-Christian neighbours would come over to help with making the festive sweets. “Everyone would get involved, whether it was rolling the kulkuls (flour balls rolled out, fried and dipped in sugar syrup) out on forks, or frying the neurios (sweet fried dumplings). They’d then taste the sweets, and shower my mother with praises,” says Nicky.

Homes were smaller, but hearts were large. After the cake was mixed, it would be taken to the local bakery (only they had the ovens with enough room), says Nicky. “We didn’t even have baking trays back then, so we’d get our cakes baked in large vessels. Once ready, we’d bring them back home from the bakery, cut them into slices and distribute them,” says Nicky.

Plates sent to neighbours would come back home with a ‘return gift’ - a piece of barfi (Indian sweet) or jaggery, or just sugar, if not anything else, says Nicky.

Visits would entail talking about Christmas while tasting the goodies people shared. "I remember us having fights at home with regards to who would go to which home with the sweets," Nicky adds. Today, his wife Tessy and he are among the several popular home bakers in Camp, known for their rum-soaked, fruit-laden cakes among other festive goodies. While star hotels and local bakeries continue to draw crowds, these bakers have a dedicated clientele.

Carl remembers how each household in Pudumjee Park specialized in some sweet preparation or the other. “One house made the best nankatahis (shortbread biscuits), while another was known for its rose cookies... We’d get to sample all these, thanks to the sharing of sweets and its reciprocation. Today, sweets are still sent home, albeit in disposable boxes. Most of these are ordered from out. Today, families struggle to find time to make sweets at home. Sitting around the table and making sweets is a luxury today!” he says.

Nicky Picardo with his delicious cakes; A girl shops for decorations in Camp

When Jim Reeves and Boney M. reigned supreme

A December walk down Dastur Meher Road and Taboot Street's quaint alleys in Camp won't just leave you with visuals of homespun architecture, but the sounds of festive tunes too. They magically waft out of households into your heart, getting you into the Christmas mood. According to Trevor Martin, a musician who grew up on Dastur Meher Road, carols adorned with Jim Reeves' warm baritone or the more retro-style Boney M. ones were commonly heard in the neighbourhoods even back in the day. "Besides homes (that would play them on cassettes and LP records), we'd also get to hear Christmas music being playing at the cribs installed on the pavements. The residents of Taboot Street would also put up big stars fashioned out of wood and paper, with smaller ones being strung across the inner bylanes. The decoration and fanfare has definitely reduced, but you can still catch sight of some cribs and stars in the area," says Trevor, who taught at St Vincent's School in the vicinity.

Another much looked-forward-to feature of the area was that of carol singers travelling across Camp's neighbourhoods.

Carl tells us that they would receive 10 to 15 caroling groups, including those from various churches before. "Most of them knew the Christian households in the area, and they walk through the lanes with their accordions and guitars. You'll be surprised to know that just one group came singing in our area last year. The culture of going carol singing might have gotten difficult because of our lifestyles, but it is something that's still looked forward to," says Carl.

What does Camp have to offer Christmas revelers today?

Though times have changed, there's much that Camp has to offer to those who come looking for some Christmas cheer, feels Nicky. "I don't think Christmas in Camp has changed, especially for those who truly come looking for it. Even today, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day (December 24-26) witness the same liveliness, joy and peace of the festival." Though a non-Christian, 27-year-old Ria Nadkarni too has always felt at home with the celebrations. She opines, "Growing up in Camp, I always felt welcome to celebrate Christmas with my friends and family. It was never about religion. Now that I am working with different people, I realize how inclusive Camp has been it. Irrespective of the festival, people forget their differences and get together here."

Carl's daughters, Pearl and Cheryl, are examples of how the youth are looking for new ways to keep the spirit of Christmas alive. They'll be visiting those who are ailing in the neighbourhood, to sing carols for them and lift their spirits. Perhaps, you could join them too!

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This article was written for and published in The Times of India.

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